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Ready to install your own floor? PNI is the easiest and most perfect way to Do-It-Yourself!
To get you started, just follow these seven simple steps. And prepare to --
Get More Out of Your Floor... when You DIY with PNI!
Note: You can also download our video demo version.
Preparation Notation:
Invite your wood flooring into the house before installing it. Allow 4 to 5 days or more, for the flooring to acclimate to the
job site conditions. If the flooring is packaged, open or remove packaging for acclimation. If flooring is being installed during
home construction and before house occupancy, the temperature and humidity should be maintained at or near occupancy levels.
 
For step 1, Joist Construction - we want to roll out the builder's 15 pound asphalt felt/ building paper lapped 2-4 inches along
the edge seams. This helps to keep out dust, retards moisture movement from below, and helps to prevent squeaks during dry
seasons. If being installed directly over a heating plant or un-insulated heating ducts, use a double layer of felt to protect
the flooring in that area.
Direction of the flooring should be at right angles to the joist.
If installing over concrete slab construction, it is important to be certain that normal slab moisture does not reach the
finished flooring. Therefore the proper vapor retarder must be used on top of the slab. The vapor retarder should have a U.S. perm rating of less than 1 perm. 6mil polyethylene film has a .04 perm rating and is considered a good choice. Another option is to use a two membrane application that includes mastic and asphalt felt.
Once you have properly addressed the slab you can use either a plywood sub floor or screed system (plywood panels are laid on
a diagonal to the direction of the finished flooring, and screeds on 12" centers at right angles to the direction of the
finished flooring). Again, use 15 pound asphalt paper between the finished flooring and the sub flooring system being used.
 
Next snap down some chalk lines. This helps us to make sure the floor pattern will be square with the walls. Don't forget to allow approximately ¾ of an inch between the wall and flooring for expansion!
 
Lay the first strip along the straight line, tongue of floor facing away from the wall. Note that the direction of the
finished flooring should be at right angles to the joist or screed system. Using the Porta-Nailer with its accessory face
nailing shoe, (sold separately) drive nails through the top surface of the flooring. Face nailing can also be accomplished by hand nailing using a 16-18 gauge finish Nail or pneumatic finish nailer. Make sure you counter sink the nail and conceal using wood putty.
 
Next we "rack the flooring." This simply means placing all the flooring into position ahead of time so that all the joints will be staggered at least 6" apart when nailed.
Work from the left side of the room -- to the right side -- and then repeat.
 
Now we face-nail into place the second and third strips as we did in step 3 until you are far enough away from the wall to position the Porta-Nailer so that we can begin blind nailing -- (nailing through the tongue of the flooring).
To make sure the joints are tight, it may be necessary to clamp the second and third strips to the first. But only if the material is slightly bowed. Think TIGHT and you'll do it RIGHT all the way.
 
Nailing the rest of your flooring will become faster and easier as you proceed. Designed to be used with gloves, even the hammer
has deep cut grooves to help you maintain a good grip. Use the rubber end of the hammer to tap the flooring (tongue side) into
place such that the groove fits snuggly against the tongue of the previous row.
A firm hit to the ram of the nailer is all it takes. It does not have to be a hard blow. The ratcheting action of the ratchet assembly prevents the ram from returning to its full upward position until your nail is properly seated! We call it "PREFERRED SEATING".
Space nails every 10 - 12 inches and near the ends 1-3 inches. An effort should be made to hit a joist as often as possible.
 
Once you have installed most of the flooring with the new 402 Porta-Nailer, then simply change to the face nailer shoe to put down the last six strips for a job well done! Again, if this accessory is not available you can face nail by hand or use a finish nailer to complete the job.
- You don't have to overpower the Porta-Nailer. Gripping the nailer too tightly and making your body rigid can cause you to move the nailer when you try to strike the ram with the hammer. You will be a much more efficient nailer by using a loose and comfortable stance.
- Use a normal blow to drive the nail. Remember, with a Porta-Nailer you can always take a second or third stroke to properly nail the nail if needed. You don't need to go back and set nails by hand with a Porta-Nailer.
- You want your hardwood floor to last a lifetime, but it is only as good as the installation. That's the beauty of the Porta-Nailer. It allows the nails to be properly seated with minimal splitting to the flooring tongue and a tight floor.
Read testimonials from Do-It-Yourselfers.
These steps are provided as a simple guideline for proper nailing technique. Should you encounter a situation not covered here or have additional questions regarding the Porta-Nailers and their use please contact us at 800-634-9281. Should you require detailed information regarding wood flooring installation we suggest you contact:
National Oak Flooring Manufacturers Association at 901-526-5016 or visit their web site http://www.nofma.org.
or
National Wood Flooring Association at 800-422-4556 or visit their web site http://www.woodfloors.org.
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